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My name is Gavino. I am from Nuoro. I hike, ride mountain bikes, occasionally take a horse where a bike makes less sense, and I have a weakness for roads that disappear between granite and Mediterranean scrub. La Maddalena and Caprera are therefore dangerous places for me: every five minutes I want to stop.

That is also the first thing I would tell anyone planning to cycle here.

Do not come to La Maddalena to ride fast.

You can. There are proper roads, climbs and enough kilometres to make your legs work. But if your objective is average speed, you are wasting one of the best advantages of the bicycle: here you can stop almost anywhere, smell the Mediterranean scrub, look across to Spargi, leave the bike beside a legal access point, walk to a viewpoint, visit Garibaldi’s home, swim, then ride again.

SardegnaTurismo explicitly promotes La Maddalena and Caprera as cycling destinations: the main island can be circumnavigated by bike, while Caprera offers a much wilder environment connected to La Maddalena by the Passo della Moneta bridge.

If you are building a wider cycling holiday rather than a single island day, our Northern Sardinia mountain biking, gravel and e-bike guide compares La Maddalena with Asinara, Monte Limbara, Porto Conte, Capo Testa and other northern routes. And if you liked the idea of exploring a protected island without a car, our Asinara by Bike guide gives you the western counterpart to this trip.

La Maddalena & Caprera by Bike at a Glance

Current community route data puts popular La Maddalena loops around 22–25 km with roughly 300 metres of climbing, while combined La Maddalena–Caprera routes commonly fall around 30–40 km depending on detours. These are planning figures, not sacred GPS numbers. Add beaches, Garibaldi museums, viewpoints and wrong turns and your actual day will be longer.

And it should be.

The Cycling Area

Why the Bike Works So Well Here

Cars are useful in Sardinia.

I own one.

That does not mean they are the best tool everywhere.

La Maddalena is compact enough that the bicycle solves several problems at once. You avoid repeatedly parking at small beaches, you move slowly enough to notice the granite landscape, and you can cross directly into Caprera without changing transport.

There is another reason.

The climbs are short enough to reward you rather than dominate the trip.

La Maddalena is not flat. Anyone telling you that probably used an electric motor without mentioning it. The roads continuously rise and fall between coves and granite ridges. Current route data shows around 300 metres of climbing for a typical 22 km circuit and approximately 340–460 metres on longer combined La Maddalena–Caprera loops.

A reasonably fit recreational cyclist can manage that.

An e-bike makes it easy.

A 20 kg city bike with bad gears makes it educational.

Choose accordingly.

1. La Maddalena Island Loop – The Ride I Would Do First

Approx. 22–25 km | ~300 m climbing | Mostly paved | 2–4 hours with stops | Gravel, trekking bike or e-bike

This is the simplest answer to:

“Gavino, I have one morning. What should I ride?”

Leave La Maddalena town and follow the island’s panoramic road, building an anticlockwise or clockwise loop depending on wind and where you want to swim.

The important stops are not complicated:

Punta Tegge → Cala Francese → Bassa Trinità → Monti d’Arena → Cala Lunga / Porto Massimo area → Cala Spalmatore → back towards town.

SardegnaTurismo describes this same coastal sequence: Punta Tegge and Cala Francese to the south-west, white-dune beaches including Bassa Trinità and Monti d’Arena to the north, and Spalmatore on the eastern side.

Punta Tegge

I like beginning here because the transition is immediate.

Town.

Granite.

Sea.

Done.

No long transfer before the landscape starts behaving like La Maddalena.

Cala Francese

This part of the island tells another story: granite quarrying. The coast around Cala Francese is closely tied to Maddalena’s granite landscape, and SardegnaTurismo highlights the relationship between the cove and the stone that characterises this side of the island.

Gavino likes that.

A landscape is more interesting when it is not only pretty.

Bassa Trinità

This is one of the classic swim stops.

White sand, dunes, granite and a position on the northern side that makes the approach by bike particularly satisfying. The wider coastal road continues towards Monti d’Arena and Cala Lunga.

Cala Spalmatore

Spalmatore works well near the end of the loop because it offers another completely different bay, with granite, Mediterranean vegetation and views towards Caprera.

If you still have legs here, I have bad news.

Caprera is very close.

You may accidentally turn your 22 km ride into 40.

This happens.

Gavino’s Rule for the La Maddalena Loop

Ride the coast. Do not race the coast.

A community cycling route can complete the circuit in about an hour.

That proves a bicycle moves.

It does not prove you saw La Maddalena.

I budget three or four hours with stops.

More if swimming.

More if carrying food.

More if somebody in the group discovers that every beach requires twenty photographs.

2. La Maddalena + Caprera Classic – The Best Full-Day Ride

Approx. 32–40 km | ~350–460 m climbing | Mostly paved | 4–7 hours with stops | Gravel / trekking / e-bike

This is the route I would choose if cycling is the main activity of the day.

Start in La Maddalena.

Ride part of the island circuit.

Cross the bridge to Caprera.

Visit the Garibaldi area.

Ride through Stagnali.

Choose either a southern extension or one of the northern/cultural roads.

Return across the bridge.

Finish with food in La Maddalena.

Current cycling databases show combined loops around 32–41 km, with approximately 350–460 metres climbing depending on the exact variant. A professional local cycling operator currently runs a roughly 40 km / +400 m La Maddalena–Caprera day, which confirms the same practical scale for a comprehensive ride.

That is the sweet spot.

Long enough to feel like a proper ride.

Short enough that stopping remains part of the plan.

Crossing to Caprera

La Maddalena and Caprera are joined by the Passo della Moneta, an artificial connection approximately 600 metres long.

The psychological distance is much greater.

You leave the inhabited island.

Then Caprera starts.

More forest.

More granite.

More old military landscape.

Less urban noise.

This is where my riding pace normally drops.

Not because I am tired.

Because everything starts distracting me.

3. Caprera Cultural Loop – Garibaldi by Bike

Approx. 16–20 km depending start and detours | Easy–moderate | Mostly paved | Best with trekking bike, gravel or e-bike

Caprera is not only beaches.

And if you ride across the island without understanding why Garibaldi is everywhere, you have skipped half the territory.

The two major cultural sites are the Compendio Garibaldino and Memoriale Giuseppe Garibaldi at Forte Arbuticci.

The Compendio preserves Garibaldi’s home, agricultural buildings, personal spaces and family burial area. The Memorial occupies Forte Arbuticci, roughly four kilometres away, and interprets his life through a larger museum setting.

Current 2026 museum note

The Memoriale currently operates Tuesday–Sunday, 13:45–19:15, with this afternoon-only schedule published through 24 October 2026. Current admission is €4, while a €12 combined ticket covers the Memorial and Compendio.

I would therefore ride first.

Museum later.

Very convenient.

Why cyclists should care

Forte Arbuticci gives you elevation.

Elevation gives you views.

Views force you to stop.

Museums give your legs a chair.

This is excellent itinerary design.

4. Stagnali – Where Caprera Starts Making Sense

Do not treat Stagnali as somewhere you pass through.

Stop.

The settlement grew from Caprera’s military history and today includes environmental and cultural facilities around the harbour area. From here roads continue south towards Due Mari and Punta Rossa, while other routes connect back towards Garibaldi sites and northern Caprera.

This is one of those locations where I use the phrase:

the trail is the spine; the territory is the story.

At Stagnali the story includes:

military settlement, fishing, conservation, environmental education, sea, forest and the modern National Park.

A bicycle connects those pieces very naturally.

5. Caprera South: Stagnali → Due Mari → Punta Rossa

This is probably the section where I enjoy the bike most.

From Stagnali continue south-east towards Due Mari, then into the Punta Rossa landscape.

The Park describes Punta Rossa as occupying the long southern peninsula of Caprera, with historic torpedo infrastructure and nineteenth-century military fortifications. Official visitor information indicates that after reaching Due Mari the final approach to the fortification continues on foot.

Good.

That is what the bike is for.

Ride until riding stops making sense.

Then walk.

Spiaggia del Relitto

The southern road also leads towards the famous Spiaggia del Relitto, named after the remains of the motor sailing vessel Trebbo, beached there after a fire in 1955. Current tourism guidance describes an unpaved panoramic road leading to parking roughly 250 metres from the beach.

This makes the southern sector much more interesting with a gravel bike or MTB than a delicate road bike.

Not technically difficult.

Just more appropriate.

Environmental note

The marine zone between the beach and Isola della Pecora is subject to strict protection, including prohibitions on navigation, mooring, fishing and scuba activity in the integral-reserve area.

The bicycle does not give you a special exemption from Park rules.

Neither does enthusiasm.

6. Caprera MTB – This Is Where I Change Bikes

If I know I am spending most of the day on Caprera, I prefer:

MTB, hardtail e-MTB or robust gravel bike.

Why?

Because the interesting possibilities start multiplying as soon as you leave the cleanest asphalt.

The National Park maintains a network of 16 hiking trails, many based on Caprera’s historic military route system.

Important:

that does not mean all 16 are cycling routes.

I have already said this in our Monte Limbara guide, and I will keep saying it until GPX apps become ashamed of themselves.

A line on a map proves somebody mapped a line.

It does not prove bicycles are permitted.

For proper MTB route planning, check current Park signage and restrictions before entering trail sections. Our broader Mountain Biking in Northern Sardinia guide explains the same distinction across the region.

7. Cala Coticcio – Do Not Ride the Protected Trail

This needs its own section because somebody will try.

Cala Coticcio is one of the most famous places on Caprera.

It is also a highly regulated TA protection zone.

Current Park rules require visits on the Coticcio and Brigantina access trails to take place on foot, during the day, accompanied under the regulated authorised-guide system. The Park has operated dedicated access surveillance since May 2026.

Therefore:

Cala Coticcio is not an MTB objective.

You can make it part of a hike-and-bike day by cycling legally to the appropriate area, securing the bike where permitted, then continuing according to the Park’s current pedestrian-access procedure.

Do not ride down the protected footpath.

Do not push the bike past restrictions and tell yourself pushing is technically walking.

The Park has heard clever arguments before.

If you want Coticcio properly

Use an authorised environmental hiking guide and treat it as the hiking part of the day.

That is where I hand the specialist role to somebody qualified.

I am Gavino.

I know my terrain.

I also know when somebody else’s professional qualification matters.

8. What About Cala Napoletana and Northern Caprera?

Beautiful.

But again, separate bike access from walking access.

The northern Caprera trail system includes Cala Napoletana, Punta Crucitta, Candeo, Poggio Stefano, Monte Tejalone and other routes restored from the historic military network.

I am happy to use the bicycle to move through the legal road/track network and then continue on foot where trail use, terrain or protection makes that the correct choice.

This is much better than forcing one sport to do everything.

Bike. Lock. Walk. Return. Ride.

Simple.

Road Bike, Gravel, MTB or E-Bike?

Road bike

Good for the main La Maddalena loop and paved Caprera roads.

Less useful if you start exploring southern dirt roads.

Gravel bike

Probably the best all-round choice.

Fast enough on asphalt.

Comfortable on rougher roads.

Still enjoyable over 30–40 km.

MTB

My choice if Caprera is the main event.

Slower around La Maddalena.

Much happier once the surface deteriorates.

E-bike

For the average visitor?

Probably the smartest option.

The islands are hilly enough for assistance to matter, but not so large that riding an e-bike feels like bringing a motorcycle to a footpath.

Couples with different fitness levels particularly benefit.

Nobody spends the afternoon waiting at the top of every climb pretending not to be annoyed.

Do I Need an E-Bike?

No.

Would I recommend one to somebody who cycles only occasionally?

Yes.

Especially in July or August.

You have:

short climbs,
heat,
beach equipment,
water,
camera,
swimming stops,
possibly 30–40 km.

The motor does not remove the cycling experience.

It removes some arguments.

Renting a Bike on La Maddalena

You do not need to bring a bike from mainland Sardinia unless you specifically want your own machine.

Several rentals operate around the port/town area.

Rent Experience Trekking Hiking e-bike Scooter e Kayak a La Maddalena Slow Travel Rent Experience operates directly around La Maddalena port and currently carries a 4.9/5 public rating. It is particularly aligned with low-impact/electric mobility and outdoor activities.

Mega Motors – Noleggio Moto, Bike, Mountain Bike, e-Bike e Quad at Via Amendola 2 currently carries a 4.8/5 rating and offers bike, MTB and e-bike rental.

Noleggio Flli.Cuccu – Auto – Scooter – Quad – Gommoni – Ebike at Via Amendola 45 is another established local rental with e-bikes, currently rated 4.7/5.

I would contact them before an August weekend.

Not after walking off the ferry at 11:30 asking for six e-bikes.

What I ask the rental

Not:

“Is it a good bike?”

I ask:

battery capacity, range estimate, tyre size, repair kit, lock, helmet, spare tube, assistance procedure, deposit, damage policy and whether the bike is suitable for the surfaces I intend to ride.

The most important phrase is:

“I intend to ride Caprera.”

Let them give you the appropriate bike.

Bringing Your Own Bike on the Ferry

Also easy.

The Palau–La Maddalena ferry crossing takes roughly 15–20 minutes, and current ferry booking systems explicitly accept bicycles/sports equipment. Delcomar’s live booking interface includes bicycles, while Maddalena Lines lets passengers specify sports equipment during booking.

That makes a Palau-based cycling day perfectly realistic:

park in Palau,
take bike aboard,
cross,
ride,
return.

What about the fare?

I would not publish an old bicycle fare as a 2026 fact.

Delcomar’s latest readily indexed detailed PDF is older, while its current booking platform calculates live travel options. The Sardinian regional transport portal specifically directs travellers to Delcomar for updated fares.

Check the live fare for your date.

That sentence ages better than €2.20.

Should You Take the Car Instead?

If the objective is cycling?

No.

Leave it in Palau if practical.

You avoid the vehicle fare, avoid parking headaches on La Maddalena and arrive with exactly the machine you intended to use.

A bicycle on a ferry also feels right.

You arrive slowly.

Then continue slowly.

Traffic: Is La Maddalena Safe to Cycle?

The main roads are normal roads.

Not a giant cycle park.

Traffic around the ferry terminal and town can be busy, particularly when ferries unload and in peak summer. Once outside the centre, conditions generally become calmer. The published airport/regional cycling itinerary specifically notes the initial shared-traffic section leaving the La Maddalena ferry area before the route settles into the island landscape.

My rule:

assume the driver has not seen you until you know they have.

Bright clothing.

Lights even in daytime.

Predictable line.

No headphones.

Do not weave between parked vehicles because the sea view has become exciting.

Granite survives impact better than cyclists.

July and August: My Least Favourite Months to Ride Here

Can you cycle?

Of course.

Would I start at noon?

No.

In peak summer I want wheels moving early.

Very early.

The advantages are obvious:

less heat,
less traffic,
easier ferry experience,
quieter beaches,
better light.

By midday I want to be swimming, eating or visiting something indoors.

Then ride again later if necessary.

Best Months

For me:

April, May, June, September and October.

Spring gives you vegetation at its best.

June gives long days before peak chaos.

September is probably the perfect compromise: warm sea, easier roads, good swimming.

October can be beautiful.

Wind matters more.

Wind: Ask Michele, but Feel It Yourself

La Maddalena is windy.

This is not controversial.

The archipelago lies beside the Bocche di Bonifacio, and mistral can turn an innocent-looking return leg into forty minutes of education.

I check wind direction before deciding which way to ride the loop.

A headwind at the beginning?

Fine.

A surprise headwind at the end when everybody is tired?

Less fine.

For wind, boats and the wider archipelago, Michele explains the marine side in our Northern Sardinia by Boat guide.

I only add this:

wind matters to cyclists too.

Heat and Water

Do not underestimate either because the sea is always visible.

Visible water does not hydrate you.

For a full La Maddalena–Caprera day I start with at least 1.5–2 litres, more in hot weather, especially if I am unsure where I will refill.

Caprera is not central La Maddalena.

Bring food.

Bring water.

Bring something salty.

The person who carries one 500 ml bottle for a summer cycling day normally becomes interested in everyone else’s bottles.

Swimming During the Ride

Absolutely.

This is one of the reasons to use a bike.

But I avoid turning every stop into a forty-minute wet-clothes session.

My system:

ride,
proper swim stop,
dry,
continue.

Beaches such as Bassa Trinità, Spalmatore, Due Mari and Spiaggia del Relitto can fit naturally into the cycling day depending on route and current access.

If underwater time becomes more important than riding, Federico’s best snorkeling spots in Northern Sardinia guide is where I send you next.

And if you decide wheels were only a pretext for getting closer to the water, our Diving Palau & La Maddalena guide goes considerably deeper.

Literally.

Can Families Cycle La Maddalena?

Yes.

But I would not automatically make children do the full 40 km combined loop.

For families, I prefer:

La Maddalena shorter coastal ride,
or ferry → short ride → Caprera → museum/beach → return.

E-bikes solve adult fitness differences.

They do not solve a child who is tired, hot and finished.

Plan around the least experienced rider.

That is not being conservative.

That is how everyone comes back wanting to cycle again.

Can You Cycle Caprera With a Normal City Bike?

Technically, much of the paved network.

Would I choose it?

No.

A trekking bike, gravel bike, MTB or e-bike gives you wider tyres, better braking and more options.

The moment the group says:

“This dirt road looks interesting.”

you will understand.

The Perfect One-Day Cycling Itinerary

If I had one day and reasonable fitness:

08:00–08:30: ferry from Palau or collect rental bike in La Maddalena.
Morning: ride western/northern La Maddalena → Punta Tegge → Bassa Trinità → northern coast → Spalmatore.
Late morning: cross Ponte Moneta into Caprera.
Lunch: simple food carried with you or stop around Stagnali/available services.
Early afternoon: Garibaldi Compendio / ride towards Arbuticci.
Later: Stagnali → optional Due Mari extension depending legs and heat.
Return: bridge → La Maddalena → ferry or dinner.

Distance?

Around 35–40 km, depending how enthusiastically I say “just one more detour”.

The Perfect Easy E-Bike Day

For a less experienced cyclist:

La Maddalena town → Caprera bridge → Garibaldi sites → Stagnali → beach stop → return.

About 20–25 km depending detours.

No obsession with circumnavigating everything.

No technical MTB.

Plenty of battery.

Plenty of photographs.

This is how I would introduce somebody to island cycling.

“A Perfect Gavino’s Day”

Different problem.

MTB or good gravel.

Early ferry.

La Maddalena coastal road only as warm-up.

Caprera.

Stagnali.

Legal dirt roads.

Military landscape.

Punta Rossa sector.

Walk where the bike stops making sense.

Pick up two pieces of rubbish somebody else left.

Swim.

Return through Garibaldi territory.

Miss the ferry I originally intended.

Catch the next one.

This is why nobody lets me design tight schedules.

History: The Bike Connects the Military Landscape Better Than a Car

One of Caprera’s best features is that the fortifications stop feeling like isolated attractions when you move between them slowly.

The island’s trail network itself largely derives from routes developed for military purposes from the late nineteenth century onwards.

Ride through it and you understand why geography mattered.

Ridges.

Channels.

Views.

Defensive positions.

Access to sea.

A military structure sitting on a hill becomes much more logical when your legs have just climbed that hill.

Leave It Better

Caprera is not remote enough to avoid rubbish.

No beautiful place is.

I carry a small bag.

If I stop and see a bottle, wrapper or piece of plastic beside the route and can safely take it, I do.

I am not cleaning Sardinia one energy-bar wrapper at a time.

I know.

But the person who left it already voted for the alternative.

I prefer my vote.

Leave it better.

“Gavino Wouldn’t Do This”

I would not ride a protected pedestrian trail because Strava shows somebody did it.

I would not drag a bike down Cala Coticcio.

I would not use a road bike on rough Caprera tracks because I want to prove tyre width is psychological.

I would not start a 40 km August ride at 12:30.

I would not rent an e-bike without asking the battery range.

I would not leave the bike unlocked while swimming.

I would not assume “National Park” means every path is recreational infrastructure.

And I would not spend the entire day looking at navigation.

If the sea is on your left and granite is everywhere, occasionally lift your head.

That is what you came for.

La Maddalena vs Asinara by Bike

This comparison is useful because we now have both guides.

La Maddalena/Caprera is easier logistically, has more services, more paved-road options, more beach stops, more rentals and more flexibility.

Asinara feels more remote, controlled and wildlife-oriented.

La Maddalena is better for:

casual cyclists,
couples,
road/gravel riding,
e-bike day trips,
mixing town + beach + culture.

Asinara is better for:

protected-island atmosphere,
wildlife,
remote landscapes,
specific MTB/thematic routes.

If bikes are the centre of your trip, read our Asinara by Bike guide and compare the two before choosing.

Better answer?

Do both.

La Maddalena & Caprera Cycling FAQ

Can you cycle around La Maddalena?

Yes. A typical island circuit is roughly 22–25 km, depending on route and detours, with around 300 metres of climbing.

Can you cycle around Caprera?

Yes on the legal road and cycling-compatible network, but do not assume every hiking trail is open to bikes. A broad Caprera outing can reach roughly 20–25 km depending on route.

Can you ride from La Maddalena to Caprera?

Yes. The islands are connected by the Passo della Moneta bridge/causeway, so no second ferry is required.

How long does the Palau ferry take?

Approximately 15–20 minutes.

Can I take a bicycle on the Palau–La Maddalena ferry?

Yes. Current ferry booking systems provide for bicycles or sports equipment.

Can I rent an e-bike on La Maddalena?

Yes. Several rental businesses in town currently offer e-bikes, MTB and other bicycles.

Is an e-bike necessary?

No. For occasional cyclists, couples with different fitness levels or summer riding, I strongly recommend one.

Is La Maddalena flat?

No. Expect repeated short climbs. Typical complete island loops accumulate roughly 300 metres of ascent.

What bike is best?

For one bike to do everything, gravel. For Caprera dirt exploration, MTB. For relaxed tourism, e-bike.

Can I cycle to Cala Coticcio?

Do not ride the regulated Coticcio trail. Current Park rules require the protected TA trail visit to take place on foot under the authorised-guide framework.

Can I cycle to Spiaggia del Relitto?

You can approach the southern Caprera area via the road/dirt-road network, then complete the final approach according to current access arrangements. SardegnaTurismo describes parking around 250 metres from the beach.

Is Caprera good for MTB?

Yes, but route legality matters. The Park has a large hiking network, and hiking classification does not automatically mean MTB access. Check current signs and Park information.

When is the best time?

May, June, September and October are my favourites. April is also excellent in suitable weather.

Can beginners do it?

Yes. Use an e-bike and select a 15–25 km itinerary rather than trying to combine both complete islands.

How many days do I need?

One full day gives an excellent introduction. Two days is much better: one for La Maddalena, one for Caprera.

Final Thoughts: An Island Is the Right Size When You Can Cross It by Bike

Cars change distance. Bicycles explain it. That is the difference.

In a car, Punta Tegge and Bassa Trinità are two locations. On a bike there is a road between them.

A climb. Wind. Granite. A view of another island.

Somebody overtakes you. You stop.

Then you see why the road was built where it was.

Caprera works even better.

Ride from the bridge towards Stagnali and suddenly Garibaldi’s home, old military infrastructure, forest, beaches and granite are not separate tourist attractions anymore.

They belong to one territory and that is the reason I ride.

Not because bicycles are virtuous ,nor because engines are evil. I own a 4×4.

A tool is useful when it helps you understand the place.

Here the bicycle does. Ride early. Carry water. Respect the Park.

Use legal routes. Leave the bike when the trail becomes a walking trail.

Visit Garibaldi.

Swim.

Stop looking at average speed.

Pick up your rubbish and maybe somebody else’s too.

And when you return to La Maddalena in the evening with salt on your skin and legs slightly more tired than expected, you will understand why I would choose the bike again the next morning.