Urzulei
Overview and Geography
Urzulei (Orthullè in Sardinian) is a mountain village situated in the central-eastern part of the Province of Nuoro at an altitude of 511 meters above sea level. Located along the eastern slopes of Mount Pisaneddu and south of Mount Is Gruttas, its vast municipal territory rises up to 1,263 meters in elevation, featuring an irregular landscape marked by rugged peaks, deep canyons, and limestone formations.
Urzulei is recognized as part of a global “Blue Zone,” a demographic area known for extreme human longevity and a high density of centenarians. The town is also a member of the national association Città del Vino. Etymologically, the name is of Paleo-Sardinian origin, deriving from úrtzula (referring to native climbing plants like traveler’s joy or prickly smilax).
Economy and Local Culture
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Primary Economy: Mountain agriculture (cereals, vegetables, fodder, vineyards, olive groves, and orchards) and livestock breeding (cattle, pigs, sheep, goats, and horses) form the economic backbone.
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Crafts: Traditional crafts focus on asphodel basketry and custom knifemaking.
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Gastronomy: Local specialties include Ogliastra culurgiones (potato-and-cheese filled pasta), Piggiolu flatbread, cured hams, goat/wild boar guanciale, and cheeses like Ca su marciu and Sa frue. Specialty niche products include Caggiu ‘e crabittu (creamy, aged kid goat rennet) and the historically clay-rich acorn bread Lande cottu.
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Choral and Folk Traditions: Active local groups include the Gruppo Folk Pro Loco di Urzulei, the choir Su Neulacoro, and the Tenore de Urthullè, which preserves traditional Sardinian pastoral polyphonic singing.
The Game of La Morra (Sa Murra)
Urzulei is internationally famous as a epicenter for the ancient hand-counting game of La Morra (Sa Murra).
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History: Originating in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome (where it was known as micatio), the game involves two competing players simultaneously extending fingers while shouting a predicted sum.
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Championships: Every summer (late August or early September), Urzulei hosts the International La Morra Championship, attracting players from across Europe (Corsica, France, Basque Country, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Aosta Valley). The town established the first Regional Championship of Sa Murra in 1998 and founded the cultural association Po su joco de Sa Murra in 2001.
History and Murals Project
Populated since prehistoric times, Urzulei was incorporated into the Giudicato of Caralis in the 11th century before passing through Gallurese, Pisan, and Aragonese rule. Integrated into the Aragonese County (later Marquisate) of Quirra under the Carroz, Centelles, and Osorio de la Cueva families, feudal rule was eventually abolished in 1839.
Public Murals (Memoria e Identidade)
Through the Memoria e identidada project organized by the Roberto Mulas cultural association, artist Angelo Pilloni (from San Sperate), along with artists Antonio Aregoni and Ruben Mureddu, created a series of painted murals across Urzulei’s historic center. These murals act as large painted enlargements of early 20th-century documentary photographs, depicting rural life, traditional attire, speleologist Luigi Donini, local elders, horses, and various matches of Sa Murra.
Architecture and Main Sights
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Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista: Built at the end of the 17th century, this hill-bound church features a mosaic-decorated facade, a square-plan bell tower, and a three-nave interior with a pink marble altar and a polychrome stained-glass window.
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Church of San Giorgio Vescovo: Constructed in the early 16th century inside a former cemetery courtyard, honoring San Giorgio of Suelli. It contains an 19th-century wooden statue of the saint.
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Church of Sant’Antonio Abate: Pre-dating the main parish church, it houses a 1633 altarpiece painting of Saint Anthony of Padua with the Infant Jesus. It hosts the annual Su Mullone ‘e Sant’Antoni bonfire on January 16.
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Museum Etnografico Andalas de Memoria: A multi-level itinerant ethnographic museum showcasing historical Ogliastra pastoral and village life.
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Civic Architecture: Landmarks include the historic municipal seat on Via Mazzini, the new Town Hall on Via Sardegna, Piazza Fontana featuring Funtana ‘Eccia (the old natural spring turned votive square), and the Luca Tanzi sports complex at Santu Ormai.
Archaeological Sites and Surrounding Area
Prehistoric and Nuragic Sites
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Grotta Sa Domu ‘e S’Orcu: A cave sanctuary set into the cliffs of Mount Is Gruttas. In the early 20th century, a young local shepherd discovered the famous 10 cm Nuragic bronze statuette known as La Madre dell’Ucciso (“Mother of the Slain”), depicting a mother cradling her fallen son. Excavated further by archaeologist Antonio Taramelli in 1930, the artifact is housed at the National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari.
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S’Arena Giants’ Tombs: A high-altitude archaeological site on the Fennau plateau at 1,039 meters elevation. It features two row-type Giants’ Tombs (S’Arena I and S’Arena II) constructed from local limestone with intact paved corridors and curved esedras, alongside a third unexcavated structure (S’Arena III).
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Nuraghe Perdeballa: A complex mixed-type (corridor and tholos) Nuragic structure set at an elevation of 1,030 meters overlooking the Rio Flumineddu, surrounded by an extensive hut village.
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Or Murales Settlement: Located near Sa Portiscra, this late Bronze Age/early Iron Age protostoric village features over 100 circular limestone huts grouped into clusters (insulae) around communal courtyards.
Natural Features and Supramonte
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Gola di Su Gorroppu: Located on the border between Urzulei and Orgosolo, this 1.5 km canyon carved by the Rio Flumineddu features vertical limestone walls reaching up to 500 meters in height, making it one of Europe’s deepest canyons.
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Supramonte di Urzulei & Genna Silana: A rugged Mesozoic limestone karst landscape accessible via the Genna Silana Pass (1,017 meters). The region hosts the Sa Portiscra wildlife reserve dedicated to protecting the Sardinian deer.
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Codula di Luna & Cave Systems: A deep limestone gorge extending toward the coastal bay of Cala Luna. Speleologists discovered that the subterranean cave system running beneath Codula di Luna stretches over 76 kilometers, making it the longest cave system in Italy.
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Sa Carcara Monumental Yew Tree: A protected, 500-year-old female yew tree (Taxus baccata) standing 12 meters tall on the Sedda Arbaccas plateau.
Abandoned Villages and Landmarks
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Mannorri: A medieval village completely destroyed between 1775 and 1780 due to a deadly blood feud (faida) surrounding the shepherd Giuanni Indentiu. Its surviving site hosts the rebuilt rural Church of San Basilio Magno.
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Siddie: A deserted historical settlement and former dependency of Mannorri, located near the Orgosecoro natural oak-forest spring.
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Su Fenu Racecourse: A municipal equestrian track that hosts the annual Palio di Su Fenu bareback horse race during the August Feast of San Giorgio.