Austis and the Barbagia di Ollolai Region
Austis (pronounced Aùstis) is a small, elevated agricultural municipality situated at 881 meters above sea level in the central-western portion of Nuoro Province. Located north of the Mandrolisai plateau, it describes itself as the geographic “heart of Sardinia”.
The Region of Barbagia di Ollolai
Barbagia di Ollolai (also known as Barbagia Superiore) is an ancient highland region in central Sardinia. Historically a curatoria of the Judicate of Arborea, it later formed part of Aragonese domains and the Duchy of Mandas. The region includes the municipalities of Austis, Fonni, Dorgali, Gavoi, Lodine, Mamoiada, Oliena, Ollolai, Olzai, Orgosolo, Ovodda, Teti, and Tiana. The surrounding landscape is characterized by high mountain terrain, ancient oak forests, and river basins.
Overview of Austis
Austis rests on a small plateau surrounded by rolling hills and Mediterranean forests. Its territory encompasses dense woodlands of holm oak, cork oak, and downy oak, as well as part of Lake Benzone (shared with Olzai).
The local economy is centered primarily on agro-pastoral activities, including cereal cultivation, forage, and livestock farming (cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs). Traditional handicrafts include leatherworking, specifically handmade leather boots (Is cosinzos) and traditional backpacks (Sa tasca).
Name Origins
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Documented since 1341 as Austis, Augustis, Daustis, Agustis, and Agostis.
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The name derives from the Latin ablative Augustis (locative form of Augustae), referencing its origin as the Roman military station Colonia Augusta.
Historical Background
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Prehistory: Inhabited since prehistoric times by Nuragic populations (attributed by historical sources to the Nurensi or Celsitani tribes).
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Roman Period: Colonized by Rome as a military post (Colonia Augusta) and staging point along the primary interior road connecting Caralis (Cagliari) to Olbia via Forum Traiani (Fordongianus). Imperial-era artifacts, coins, amphorae, and Latin inscriptions have been recovered across the area.
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Medieval to Modern Era: During the Middle Ages, Austis belonged to the Judicate of Arborea under the Barigadu subdistrict. In 1607, during Spanish rule, it was granted as a fief to the Amat family, who held it until the abolition of feudalism in 1839.
Cultural Traditions, Carnival, & Gastronomy
Carnival Masks: Sos Colonganos & S’Urtzu
The traditional Carnival of Austis revolves around archaic ritual figures re-discovered through ethnographic research:
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Sos Colonganos: The name derives from the Greek kolos (sheep). These figures wear cork masks covered with strawberry tree (corbezzolo) branches, fox or marten skins on their heads, and sheepskins over their bodies. Unlike other Barbaricino masks that use bronze bells, Sos Colonganos carry animal bones across their shoulders, creating a dull, muffled sound as they dance to symbolize the cycle of death and rebirth.
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S’Urtzu: A figure dressed as a wild boar representing the ritual victim, pursued and beaten by two hooded black-clad guardians.
Holy Week Ritual (Su Nennere)
At the start of Lent, families plant seeds of wheat, barley, and oats in small pots to sprout in dark spaces. Known as Su Nennere, these pale green shoots are brought to the church on Easter Sunday to be blessed as a propitiatory rite for a fertile harvest.
Key Annual Events
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Carnival Period: Public parades featuring Sos Colonganos and S’Urtzu.
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Patronal Feast of Santa Maria Assunta (August 15): Solemn religious services and folk celebrations honoring the Assumption of Mary.
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Feast of Sant’Antonio da Padova / Sant’Antonio de Basiloccu (Third Sunday of September): The town’s primary rural festival, held at the countryside chapel of St. Anthony, accompanied by a communal feast of roasted meats seasoned with local aromatic herbs.
Urban Landmarks and Architecture
The town preserves a traditional rural layout set on a high plateau, characterized by granite structures and a lack of modern suburban sprawl.
Key Highlights in Town
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Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta: Reconstructed in 1567 over the site of an earlier 13th-century church, with subsequent renovations over the centuries.
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The Monumental Crucifix: The church houses a notable two-meter-high wooden sculpture of the crucified Christ carved from a single dried wild pear tree trunk by local artist Elio Sanna (1964–2007). The artist also sculpted the church’s stone baptismal font.
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Town Hall (Municipio): Located on Via Vittorio Emanuele in the town center.
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Civic Amenities: Includes the municipal sports grounds and tennis courts located off Via Barcalai.
Surrounding Countryside & Natural Heritage
The granite terrain around Austis is defined by natural wind-and-water erosion that has shaped distinctive rock formations.
1. The Monolith of Sa Crabarissa
Located near the scenic viewpoint of Punta Borta Melone (overlooking the Tirso Valley at nearly 900 meters altitude) in the Sa Senoredda locality, Sa Crabarissa is a prominent natural granite rock stack naturally eroded into the silhouette of a woman wearing traditional dress.
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Etymology & Folklore: The name translates to “woman of Cabras”. Local folklore tells of a maiden from the coastal town of Cabras who fell in love with an Austis shepherd during winter transhumance. After he failed to return, she traveled to the mountains only to find him married to another, turning to stone from sorrow on her journey home. An alternate legend claims she was transformed into stone after refusing to offer food to a hungry shepherd.
2. Country Chapel of Sant’Antonio da Padova
Erected in 1664 on the Sa Sedda de Basiloccu plateau, this rural church features a Baroque wooden altar. It is flanked by a covered porch surrounded by pilgrim lodgings (muristenes) arranged around an open courtyard.
3. Gallery Dolmen of Perda Longa
Located near the boundary with Teti, this prehistoric gallery dolmen (or transitional giant’s tomb) measures 8.30 meters long by 1.40 meters wide. Constructed from roughly fifteen vertical granite slabs topped by four or five flat capstones, its internal chamber is divided into two sections by a transverse stone slab.
4. Nuraghe Istecorì
Situated on an elevation along the SP4 road, this nuraghe preserves a circular base and three distinct entryways. Its thick stone walls feature narrow viewing slits designed to monitor the surrounding valley. Archaeologists consider it an outer defensive post linked to the nearby Bronze Age village of S’Urbale.